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SOUTH AFRICA, NAMIBIA, BOTSWANA, ZAMBIA 2003
Saturday 21st June 2003 Cape Town
It takes 11 hours to fly the 6,000 miles from London to Cape Town in a Boeing 777. I watched “The Pianist” as the movie, and the flight was good as I had a spare seat next o me and managed to get a couple of hours sleep.
Arrived in Cape Town at 07:30, but my transport was nowhere to be se so a cadged a lft with another guy also going to the Breakwater Lodge. A basic hotel, with shared shower and toilet. Had a couple of hours sep fore it stated to rain, quite hard at times. Went for a walk around the waterfront, which seemed very nice with shops and museums and an aquarium before meeting the rest of the group. Had a group meal.
Sunday 22nd June Cape Town
Great English breakfast, d the drove to Cape Pont. A clear day with blue sky and hardly any clouds. Walked up to the lighthouse at the Point where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans met.
Walked to another point past a white sand beach and then drove to Simons Town where ere were Jackass Penguins nesting. The young were quite large, brown and fluffy.
Had a nice Chinese meal for dinner, and then a beer in the Ferryman’s Pub, full of English beers.
Monday 23rd June Clanwilliam
After breakfast we packed e truck. Very full with 22 people onboard. Table Mountain was covered in cloud, but still went up in the cable car which had a rotating floor and went very fast. Only took 4 minutes to get to the top.
Very cloudy ad misty at the top so there were no views of Cape Town, except for a brief glimpse on the way down.
Drove to Citrusdel on the way to Namibia. Nice campground with good showers and toilets. Spaghetti Bolognaise for dinner, but was very late. Camped at Clanwilliam.
Tuesday 24th June Orange River
Struck camp and travelled towards Namibia. Was quite chilly in the morning, but warmed up quickly so there was not a cloud in the sky.
Passed through Springbok and stopped at the Spar, where some vagrants were bothering us until a security guard appeared with a gun. The border crossing was quite smooth for Africa standards and camped just across the Orange River in Namibia. The scenery is already changing into an arid expanse with little vegetation.
Wonderful stars, the Milky Way being clearly visible. Best I’ve seen since the Grand Canyon. Wednesday 25th June - Hobas
A bit of a lay-in before we went canoeing down the Orange River. There was frost on the ground when we got up. More like Kayaking in Canadian canoes, but it was very hot and the water fairly cold. Went down a few rapids and one canoe flipped on the first rapid. But nothing too adventurous.
After lunch drove to Fish River Canyon, but we missed the sunset and so went straight to the campsite. It was very dusty and no grass. The hills around the canyon looked quite pretty as we were travelling.
Camped at Hobas.
Thursday 26th June Helmarighousen
Got up well before dawn for the short trip to Fish River Canyon to watch the sunrise. Quite a nice scenic view, similar to the Grand Canyon for rock formation, but not in terms of colour or scale.
Went back to camp for breakfast and then drove to Helmarighousen. Still hot and sunny during e day, but wind and dusty
Camped in a family campsite, where we could sit in heir lounge. Nice sunset.
Friday 27th June - Sesrium
A bit of a lay-in and then drove to Sesrium, the entrance to Sossusvlei. On the way we stopped to se a giant Social Weaver Birds nest which takes up almost an entire tree. We also stopped for views of petrified sand dunes. Very hot outside, but very windy so is very cold on the back of the truck. Also, sand roads but feeling that we have arrived in Namibia at last.
Campsite is quite busy, with ground squirrels and large round fast beetles as company.
Went to a and-dune for the sunset. Harder to climb than I thought it would be, and missed the sunset as I was only ¼ of the way up. Some of the others were very late getting back to the truck but they seemed to have a lot of fun running own the dunes in the dark.
I got lost on the ay back from the toilet block it wasn’t easy finding my way in the dark without my glasses!
Saturday 28th June - Sesrium
Up at 5am for a hike up Dune 45, imaginatively named as its 45km from Sesrium. The truck was due to leave at 05:30 but I nearly missed it as I got lost again in the dark on the way to the bathroom!
The Dune did not look overtly big (they never do) but it was difficult to climb to start with as the slopes were steep. But it flattened out for a bit before going up again at a lower gradient. Quite cold and windy and sand everywhere! But beautiful as they were terracotta orange. Nice sunrise with the sun changing colour every couple of minutes; went down, (which was easy) to see the view from the bottom with dead trees which was really nice.
Drove further to Sossusvlei and then hiked to Deadvlei. Wonderful views along the way, which was a sand track. Lots of petrified trees on a alt lake bed. Very pretty.
Got very tired on the way back due to walking in the sand. Had a lazy afternoon and a beer or two in the bar.
Sunday 29th June Bushcamp
First drove to Solitaire, a very small ‘town’ consisting of a gas station, and general store. And then into Namib-Naukluft National Park. Saw some zebra, camels and springbok as well as interesting rock formations which looked like a ploughed field.
Saw a small group of zebra ad then stopped by a Quivertree. Stopped at the tropic of Capricorn and then also by some rocks carved by the wind, but nothing too exciting. Raced a springbok which reached around 80km/h and was still sponking.
Found some Welwitschia plants which can be up to 1500 years old but also about the ugliest plant I ha ever seen!
Arrived at our bush camp which is surrounded by pleasant hills. Found some large tracks, but could not identify them; but from a large predator as could see claw marks and were as large as a fist.
Very hot, even after dark and humid for the first time on the trip. It was very windy during the night, bowing a sand storm. It was so powerful the floor of he tent rose a couple of times.
Monday 30th June Swakopmund
Found a big scorpion in the camp. Bit of a lay-in and then drove to see the lunar landscape near Swakopmund. Not overly impressive but quite pretty.
Drove ino Swakopmnd. It is next to he Atlantic Ocean and seems a pleasant little town. Signed up for Quad biking and asked about flights down the Skeleton Coast. We’re here for 2 ½ days which seems a bit excessive.
Had my first shower for days and then a few beers in the bar before heading out for a Chinese which as very good followed by more beer until midnight.
Tuesday 1st July Swakopmund
Had a lay-in until 09:30. Booked a flight to the Skeleton Coast and then wandered around town for an hour or two.
In the afternoon went quad biking. Lots of fun over the sand dunes but difficult to steer and so I nearly ran over one of the guides and then got lost when I took a wrong turn down a valley between two dunes. Watched the sunset over the Ocean and then watched the biking video in the bar.
Huge pizza for dinner.
Wednesday 2nd July Swakopmund
Got up early for flight to Epupa Falls, which is in the north of Namibia on the border with Angola.
Passed some mountains very low and then tried to find desert elephants in the Uniab river valley but no luck. Went over some table-top mountains and saw giraffe, zebra, Oryx and some caracole. Passed over the Zebra mountains which were stripped vertically, just like a zebra.
Went over Epupa Falls which were quite impressive in the flood water and then landed nearby on a dirt airstrip. A 4x4 was waiting for us to take us to the Ovahimba village where we met some traditional Himba people. There were mainly girls covered in red ochre and traditional wigs. The men were having a meeting near the falls choosing a new chief. Saw some Himba graves which were surrounded by cattle skulls.
Drove to the falls, and had lunch in a nearby lodge. Left in he plane for Opuwo for a refuelling stop. We were high and there was lots of turbulence with a bumpy landing on the airstrip which had donkeys walking down the runway.
After refuelling took off again and few over sand dunes to the Skeleton Coast. Haven’t seen much sand before! Saw some flying flamingos, a couple of small shipwrecks, salt pans as well as thousands of Cape Fur Seals at Cape Cross.
Arrived back a Swakopmund just as the sun was setting. A good day out. 10 hours for N$3400. Had springbok in the hotel restaurant, very tender.
Thursday 3rd July Bush camp
Left at 8am after packing our stuff back in the truck. Drove north to Cape Cross. There were a couple of side-striped jackals hanging about.
Saw he Cape Cross Fur Seal colony which had loads of seals with a few pups mainly sunning themselves on he rocks. Had lunch at the side of he road in the desert then went for a hike to see the ‘White Lady’ rock paintings which were really clear. Looked more like a ‘Black Man’ though! The tour guides were Rastas listening to Bob Marley who spoke with four different types of ‘click’.
Camped in the middle of the desert. Nice rolling scenery and a good glowing sunset. A warm wind so was not cold.
Friday 4th July Otjitotongwe
Up very early as we have a frantic day. Nice sunrise, then hit the road to go to see rock carvings made by bushmen. Some were very clear but they were in the open as they were originally in a cave which has since collapsed.
Drove further to the petrified forest. Not so much of a forest as just a few logs, but the wood bark, branches and rings ere clearly definable. The trees were from Central America, before the continents split. The fossils are around ¼ billion years old.
Drove to the Otjitotongwe Cheetah Park. The family home contains 5 cheetah, including a 9month old cub. We ere let inside so at we could pet them but the youngest took a fancy to my camera bag and would not let go!
We then went into the park to feed the rest of the cheetahs, some seemed in poor condition but were happy enough. Had beer with the owner who seemed to have a fight on his hands with the Namibian Government.
Saturday 5th July Etosha
On the road a 8am to go to Etosha National Park. Stopped at Outja for shopping and then got to Etosha just before lunch.
Drove through the park and stopped at a waterhole. Saw lots of Chapman’s Zebra, a lone wildebeest and hartebeest. Also a couple of bustards on the way.
At lunch, stopped by a waterhole where there were lots of elephants, with a big herd snaking its way and running towards the water. Some cute young ones, as well as some playing in the water.
After lunch saw an ostrich and a herd of wildebeest. Our campground is very crowded. At the waterhole there were loads of elephants. After dark a small black rhino came to the water after the elephants had left. After this rhino went, a larger black rhino came to the water as well as an elephant with a tiny baby. Amazed o compare the size of a rhino against an elephant the rhino seemed tiny!
After dinner, we went back to the waterhole for ½ hour, but did not see anything.
Sunday 6th July - Etosha
Up at 5am for a morning game drive. Saw a few zebra, including Hartmann’s Zebra which have a large mane. A few ostrich, springbok and impala. A couple of hartebeest and a large bull elephant who was white in colour so must have been dusting himself in the white dust.
Went onto he pan which was huge, white and flat. There was a mirage effect with the heat of the sun.
After bunch back at camp, walked to the waterhole again where there were lots of zebra, some hartebeest and a lone springbok. There as also a wild cat lurking around, but did not drink the water.
At camp there were lots of glossy starlings scavenging for scraps. There was also a large black insect, 5-6 inches long with iridescent wings which looked similar to a tarantula wasp; there was also one buzzing me at the waterhole. Very hot in the sun.
The afternoon game drive was not very fruitful either. Went to several waterholes but only saw zebra, giraffe, hartebeest, impala, springbok and some kudu. There was a large Balfour Eagle a one waterhole which was very colourful.
Saw a great sunset at the Moringa waterhole when we returned to camp, but not many animals for an hour. Well after dark, three zebra came but ere scared away by a lone hyena. Then a black rhino came followed by a large bull elephant who made gurgling noises as he sucked up the water and squirted it into his mouth.
Went to bed straight after dinner, and so missed 5 lions and 3 rhino who were at the waterhole.
Monday 7th July Etosha
Up at 05:30 for morning game drive. Went for 6 hours and stopped at several waterholes - mostly empty. Did see a silver-backed jackal and black-backed jackal. Several eagles, including Marshall eagles and some tawny eagles. Lots of Oryx and ostrich at one waterhole. But very windy and dirty and cold in the truck.
In the afternoon, we saw the Balfour Eagle again, as well as lots of impala in a line. At another waterhole there were hundreds of guinea-fowl in precession as well as a tree-full of lovebirds. Some baby giraffe and elephants.
Drove to a new campground at Namutoni at the east end of Etosha. Not so good a waterhole, but hot showers.
Had a coupe of pints in the bar before dinner, and then went to the waterhole but there was only a springbok, a jackal and lots of plovers.
Tuesday 8th July Waterberg
Up before dawn for a morning game drive. Again, no predators but saw some guinea fowl. There was a very big warthog eating elephant dung before running off. Later, we saw 3 baby warthog running up a bank, and on the plain there was a huge one ‘The size of a wildebeest!’
Drove out of Etosha to Tsumeb where we changed money and bought groceries. Stopped at the Hoba meteorite. A 50-ton square lump of iron that fell from the sky 80,000 years ago and did not make a crater. Hmmmm.
Drove on to Waterberg Plateau Park. Large colourful cliff and we camped at the bottom. Very cold.
Wednesday 9th July Windhoek
Up at 05:30 to hike to the top of the plateau. It was quite steep towards the escarpment and I got lost at the top trying to find the viewpoint! Nice sunrise. There were some rock hyrax sunning themselves on the red rocks. The walk down was quite easy and there was an unidentifiable tree which gave a good foreground to the escarpment.
Drove to Windhoek stopping at Okahandja where there was a line of curio shacks but nothing interesting.
In Windhoek, our intended campground was full, so we ended up n the one between a busy road and the airport!
Thursday 10th July Windhoek
It was a cold night, very cold! Went into Windhoek in the morning and did some shopping. Chilled out in the afternoon at the Arebusch campground.
Windhoek seems a nice city, with an imposing Supreme Court building. Seemed quite safe, only being bothered by guys selling newspapers.
Very cold again.
Friday 11th July Maun
Up at 05:00 for the 1000km drive from Windhoek to Maun along the Trans-Kalahari highway. Not much to see along the way and did not look much like a desert. Lots of shrubs and trees in the sand.
The border crossing into Botswana was easy and we did not have to disinfect ourselves at the Buffalo Fence. Entertained ourselves playing Bingo (I won 3 times), and sleeping!
We put our clocks forward one hour crossing the border. Maun campground seems OK, with lots of deep sand. The journey took nearly 12 hours.
Saturday 12th July Okavango Delta
After q quick shop, we went into the Delta in a large ex-Army 4x4 which had been converted into a safari vehicle. Saw some giraffe and elephants on the way. Went through several very small villages, the road being deep sand with shrubs and trees around.
Got to the water, where our Mokoro’s were waiting. They are dug out sausage trees and lie very low in the water, but the polers have bailing bowls. The tents and chairs and food were put into a couple which looked like they were going to sink! Our poler was named ‘Prince’.
The trip down the water was very peaceful. Lots of reeds, saw a huge troop of baboons by the waters edge. Got to our campground after an hour or two. Put up the tents in a dirt clearing in the trees.
After dinner went for a walk through the Delta, with ‘No’ and ‘Sam’ as our guides. Told about Acacia and Palm trees. Saw elephants, baboons and giraffe. Great sunset. There were clouds in the sky today, the first we’ve seen since we left Cape Town.
The night was bright due to a full moon. Heard elephants trumpeting just outside the camp during the night.
Sunday 13th July Okavango Delta
Up at 06:30. After q quick breakfast, watched the sunrise and went on a 3-hour game walk. Saw a hyena in the bushes before running off, a vulture on top of a tree and an elephant who was eating leaves and rubbing his back against a tree. Got to within about 50m before he started walking towards us and we departed quickly.
After brunch and a powernap we went in the Mokoro’s to a hippo pool surrounded by many high reeds. There were 3 there, as well as a darter. Back at camp, washed my feet as they were the dirtiest they have ever been! At sunset saw another elephant drinking from the Delta waterways.
Another great sunset with the sky turning deep red. Lions roaring in the night.
Monday 14th July Maun
Up at 06:00 for another game walk around the Delta. Saw an impala and a preying mantis and that was all. Our guide showed us a sausage tree which they use to make their Mokoro’s from the trunk, and Buffalo Thorn which they use to make their poles. Saw some red-winged and long-tailed starlings.
Broke camp after brunch and went back through the Delta on our Mokoro with Prince. Saw some baboons and a few birds. A bumpy ride back to Maun in the Army truck.
After lunch, took a flight from Maun Airport across the Delta. Fantastic. There was a kaleidoscope of blue, green, yellow and brown. The water was not at its highest but still saw herds of elephants, zebra, impala and a huge herd of buffalo. A few giraffe and a lone hippo wallowing who dived headlong across the river when he saw us.
The pilot flew like a maniac, very low and fast making quick tight turns and racing another plane. Shame really. A very pretty sight though and gave a different perspective on the Delta, its size, colour and diversity of habitat and wildlife. Struck by the huge numbers of termite mounds. Very pretty in the setting sun.
Another fabulous sunset. There were clouds travelling back from the Delta, but once we got back to Maun they had all gone. Had a nice warm open-air shower to try to get some of the dirt from the past few days to wash off!
Another warm night, so lots of beers in the bar.
Tuesday 15th July Kasane
Up fairly early to drive to Kasane. Due to the dirt roads, the truck could not drive directly through Chobe via Savuti, we had to take the long way round via the main roads; but we did see a herd of elephants en-route.
A long journey, arriving just before sunset. Staying at the Chobe Safari Lodge which bought back memories for me as I swam in their pool on my first day in Botswana in 1997. The campground was packed with wildlife, seeing squirrels, a warthog, vervet monkeys and a large black and white hornbill, probably a Trumpeter Hornbill.
Lots of darters and birdlife over the river. Nice red sunset, with the three conspicuous trees reminding me of my sunset boat cruise last time I was here.
Lots of strange noises during the night.
Wednesday 16th July Kasane
Up before dawn for the game drive in Chobe National Park. Left at 06:30 in converted Land Cruisers which took 10 people. Saw guinea-fowl and francolin, a buffalo skeleton and then went down to the riverbank. There were Puka, Kudu, impala, black-winged slilts and yellow-billed storks. Went past my old campsite in Serondela, which was now rundown and used as a rest area. Stopped there for drinks on the way back.
On the flats west of the camp, we saw a lion kill of probably a buffalo. We could hear the male lion roar, but could not see him. We counted 9 lionesses, including one with a collar, so possibly the same pride which I saw a lot of in 1997?
Saw giraffe and warthog on the way back, as well as a troop of baboons including some cute babies playing and pulling each other’s tails. Went out via the old gate, and then were stuck in the sand climbing the slope to the new gate.
Back at the safari lodge I booked another game drive and left again almost immediately. Another group had seen 3 wild dogs chasing down an antelope. Took a similar route as before, but did not get so far into the park as I was alone in the truck and so could stay longer to appreciate the animals.
There were two warthogs grooming a young one, I thought it was dead at first. Saw a fish eagle land and take off from a tree with half a dead fish in its talons. There were colourful crimson-breasted shrikes and a group of able antelope in the Waterhole Trail. I saw two giraffes fighting, and near Puka flats there were a number of hippos on the bank and large herds of elephants were making their way down to the river; some with lots of playful babies.
After a quick snack, I joined the group for the river safari. Saw loads of fish eagles, hippos, darters. Egrets, Egyptian gees, water skimmers; a few sacred ibis, jacana, bee-eaters and pied kingfishers. There were lots of crocodiles, and a few water lizards. There were also sable antelope, giraffe with oxpeckers, impala, red letchwe and lots of elephants and buffalo drinking from the river.
A nice sunset whilst we were still on the river, with elephants grazing in the foreground.
An excellent day!
Thursday 17th July Livingstone
Up at 07:00 to break camp and head for Zambia. Hung around Kasane for a couple of hours waiting for the visa application to come through, but it did not, so we headed for the river crossing across the Zambezi/Chobe river at Kazungula.
Interesting ferry across the river. Typical roll on / roll off with scaffolding poles and corrugated iron for shelter, run by a tractor engine. The ferry arrived and a huge articulated lorry with a trailer (semi) broke the floor of the ferry getting off and ‘everyone’ tried to help repairing it. Then a lot of cars pushed in so we had to wait for the next one.
The river was quite wide, and pretty and saw a small red-billed kingfisher in the reeds.
Held up trying to get into Zambia, so had to pay $65 for the visa. Fortunately they found the paperwork at the last minute so we got our money back. Drove the short distance to Livingstone (Maramba) and camped at the Waterfront campground. After a quick lunch, drove to Victoria Falls. Could see the spray before we could hear it.
The water was very high, and there are nice paths to the viewpoints. Lots of spray causing an almost circular rainbow in the bright sun. Crossed a bridge onto Livingstone Island, where there were good views of the Friendship Bridge as well as intermittent views of the falls through the spray. Very wet!
Went up to the top of the falls so could see the Zambezi with the sun behind for another great sunset. Bought a triple hippo ironwood carving at the curio stand for $20.
Friday 28th July Livingstone
Up at 06:30 for an elephant-back safari. Picked up a few others along the way, so that we were 10 in number. Nice sunrise over the falls.
Nice lodge, given an introduction and then the 5 elephants arrived by the side of the waterhole. We were introduced to them, mainly orphans. One big bull was called ‘Bob’, but mine was named ‘Danny’. Climbed aboard via a staircase, very comfortable but my legs were stretched a bit! Our mahout knew all the birds and trees, his name was ‘Africa’.
Danny kept eating the whole way, and had a drink of water from the Zambezi, but luckily did not squirt it along his back! Saw a few waterbuck along the way, and had posed photos taken. Back at the lodge we fed the elephants, Danny sucked up the pellets like a hoover. Their skin is not as rough as I thought, and are very hairy. The elephants then went home again along the waterhole and we had a nice English breakfast and watched the video.
Went back to the Waterfront campground. I changed $20 for 92,000 Zambian Kwatcha and got upgraded to a lodge for just $30 so I could spread my stuff around, some of it to be burnt!
After a sandwich and chips at the bar, we left for our 30min helicopter flight. Went over the falls several times, big rainbows in the spray. Much more water than in November 1997, and could see where the highest water went at its peak in April and May. It is at flood until the end of August.
Flew very low over some villages, at just over tree-top level and then went down the gorge at water level which was quite scary and felt the G-force. Buzzed the rafters at rapid 25 just as they were climbing out of the gorge. We then flew low over another village and then into the game park on the Zambian side where we saw a herd of elephants as well as giraffe, zebra, impala and some hippos out of the water.
Flew over the falls for the last time, saw the island which Livingstone stayed the night before he discovered the falls, and then also Livingstone Island from where he first viewed the falls which was in November so the water would have been low.
A great flight.
Met the rafting crew and then went to the river for a booze cruise. Free beer and BBQ for just $25. Saw 3 white rhino, hippos, waterbuck on the bank of the river and then we had a great sunset over the falls.
The real memory though will be seeing two elephants swimming across the river in the sunset, using their trunks as snorkels and blowing bubbles in the water.
Went to the bar for loads more beers and got to bed around 1am.
Saturday 19th July 2003 Home
Up at 08:00 to pack my bags ready for the long flight home. Left loads of dirty stuff as its only fir for burning!
Livingstone is a small airport, no real surprise there. Got on a Nationwide 737 to Johannesburg then transferred to a BA 747-400 to London Heathrow. Arrive at 07:00.
A great trip. Shame about the lack of game at Etosha, but Okavango Delta and Chobe were excellent, as expected.
Highlights South Africa
§Table Mountain §Jackass Penguins
Highlights Namibia
§Stars §Desert §Fish River Canyon §Sossusvlei §Deadvlei §Social Weaver Bird nest §Terracotta orange sand dunes §Etosha Pan §Black Rhino §Cold Nights §Gemsbok and Oryx §Quad-biking at Swakopmund §Waterberg Plateau §Cape Fur Seals §Epupa Falls §Ovahimba girls
Highlights Botswana
§Mokoro through Okavango §Delta bush camp §Delta scenic flight §Sunsets §Chobe safaris §African Fish Eagles §Elephant herds §Laughing hippos §Playful baboons §River crossing to Zambia
Highlights Zambia
§Victoria Falls §Elephant-back safari §Helicopter through Zambezi gorge §Elephants snorkelling
Animals Spotted
AnimalEtoshaOkavangoChobeHippo4YesBlack Rhino3White Rhino3Bustard4OstrichYesJackal41Hyena11Wild Cat1KuduYesYesImpalaYesYesYesGiraffeYesYesYesSpringbokYesElephantYesYesYesZebraYesYesYesWildebeestYesMarshall Eagle4OryxYesLovebirdsYesGuinea FowlYesYesYesHornbillYesYesYesWarthog4YesBaboonYesYesVultureYesYesBuffaloYesYesVervet MonkeyYesFish EagleYesPukuYesSableYesLion9FrancolinYesLetchweYesJacanaYes
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